There are some cities that leave you speechless. There are others that will have you lulling your family to sleep as you drone on soporifically at the dinner table. But then there are cities like Hargeisa, the capital of the pseudo-country of Somaliland. That's not to say there's anything wrong with Hargeisa.
On the contrary, i actually kind of liked it. But how much can you say about a city with essentially 1 street. But “tourist attractions” are not what Hargeisa is about. It is instead the “tourist attentions”.
Times have been rough on Hargeisa, Somaliland and indeed Somalia over the last couple decades, and it shows. The toll of decades of unrest are obvious on the city's face. There is a lack of basic infrastructure, abject poverty is rampant and security remains unsure. But things are getting better. Somaliland has done remarkably well in establishing all the criteria for an independent nation.
But there inlays the appeal. “Hello white man!” is shouted from nearly every little nook and cranny as you wander freely through the streets and markets.
This is not the hard-core war-zone some people may expect. In fact, if not for the occasional security check in and out of town or the odd traffic cop, you wouldn't notice any such armed presence as you would in Yemen or Kurdistan. These are not decapitating, kidnapping, bomb-planning pirates.
These are good honest folks genuinely happy, and curious, to see you. There are none of the false conversations to try to sell you something like you'd find in Ethiopia. Just people who want to ask you name and maybe touch your white skin.
But for those who might need more motivation than merely being a spectacle, there are a couple things to occupy a day in Hargeisa. The market is fun enough to wander around. And the camel and goat market, just outside the centre, is a great place to... well... check out goats and camel (keep in mind these are mostly desert folk and don't take too kindly to photos).
Although the exchange rate tend to fluctuate a lot, when i was there US$1 = 5,800 SS. Not such a big deal you might think. Perhaps i should mention that the largest bill they have is the 500 SS (that's about $0.09) So the changers sit on massive piles of bills, like some sort of Duck Tales opening credits. Exchanging becomes so ridiculous that people LITERALLY take their money away in wheelbarrows!!!
There are a surprising number of excellent value for money hotels in town, namely the Oriental Hotel. Plus there are a couple of adequate eateries around the centre. It can be a bit of an issue if you plan to leave town. Technically, all foreigner must have an armed guard outside Hargeisa as they take foreigner safety seriously. This can be expensive.
Hargeisa will never become a major tourist destination. But it is important to realize that there is a possibility for tourism. It is true that everything could change tomorrow. So be sure to check before coming to the region.
But I was asked many times by the locals to tell you something, so here it is, “Here is peace and security. Come to Somaliland.”
Source: Joestrippenblog
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