BERBERA, Somaliland—The battle for hegemony in the Middle East is
playing out at an ancient African port where traditional dhow fishing
boats now share space with giant, container ships loaded around the
clock by men in yellow high-visibility vests.
Berbera, in the
breakaway republic of Somaliland, is perched on a narrow shipping lane
leading to the Suez Canal and is just 260 nautical miles from Yemen’s
civil war. Since antiquity, the town’s strategic shore has been coveted
by military and maritime powers. Described by colonial-era travelers as
the “key to the Red Sea,” the port became an Ottoman stronghold and
later a British colonial outpost.
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